Monday, October 17, 2016

Flip the bird.

I subscribe to a lovely website called Tasting Table, filled with cooking tips, restaurant highlights, food trends and more. This week they re-ran a piece from earlier in the year, called 20 Recipes Every Twentysomething Should Know How to Make. The list includes many of the usual suspects: a good steak, mashed potatoes, chicken noodle soup, cheesecake, etc. As I cling to twentysomething status just a bit longer, I'm happy to say that for me this list is mostly under the (tightening) belt.

One which has always intimidated me, however, is Number 16: roast chicken. Now, I actually roast chicken quite often: my mom's foolproof 350*F/35 minute method is perfect for bone-in, skin-on chicken legs, thighs, wings and breast pieces. The parts all cook pretty evenly, and cook time is weeknight-friendly. But there's something about a crisp, golden-brown, whole bird which is just so mouthwatering and virtuous. Of course, it's also time-consuming and high-maintenance: pat dry. Season. Truss. Baste. Invert to keep the white meat juicy and dark meat cooked. Do a chicken dance. Every Thanksgiving I summon all my courage to tackle the turkey because I love sharing it with friends and loved ones (and because there's no gravy like turkey roasting pan gravy), but I will admit that I get quite stressed about it. In theory, chicken is a nice way to practice throughout the rest of the year, and it makes a grand weekend dinner with practical leftovers for weekday lunches.

Last winter we went skiing with a family friend who shared her favorite, low-maintenance roast chicken: the key is to blast it with heat and keep flipping - this ensures a nice even tan, no basting required. It's Joel Robuchon's roast chicken, minus the giblets and plus equator-sliced heads of garlic as stabilizers (lay them cut-side down on the pan to prevent the bird from tipping over as you lay it on various sides). Here's the magic formula once you've buttered and seasoned it:

400*F/25 min/25 min/10 min/5 min (start on its side, flip to the other side, then lay on the back and then end on front)

My sister gave me the encouragement (and the recipe link) to try it together, and we were well rewarded for our experimentation. What did we learn? In general, as with many other intimidating foods, just show it who's boss. If it falls down, nudge it back up. If you tear the skin as I did once during the flipping process...

...just turn it around for the photo.

(No one will see after you carve it anyway.)

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