A morel dilemma.

Two weeks ago, my mom sent me bags of dried wild mushrooms as part of a birthday package. Sunday night, at the end of a busy weekend/long week, I was curled up on the couch (feeling a little under the weather) and could barely keep my eyes open when I suddenly remembered that there was a recipe I had wanted to try from a new cookbook (also a birthday gift) with my new morels. But in my current state, could I muster the energy to cook something new and relatively involved?

Strike one: I was already in pajamas. Strike two: I didn't have one of the key ingredients, Madeira, a fortified Portuguese wine. Fortified wines are wine + some kind of liquor (hence the fortification), and they're often used in cooking. I find them to be difficult because many recipes call for a specific type (chicken Marsala, Cognac-lacquered quail), and I'm not inclined to spend a lot of money keeping around a variety of seldom-used cooking wines.

There I was, with two strikes against me. But I really wanted to try my morels, and I knew I wouldn't have much time the next week to cook. So I called home for a quick consulation: my mom is an excellent cook and my dad knows more about wine than anyone I know. They recommended I buy a Port, which is versatile yet complex enough to cover the bases for some cooking and baking needs (and isn't bad as an after-dinner drink either). (Does anyone have any suggestions for must-have cooking liquor, preferably a flexible booze that is useful for sweet and savory recipes?)

At this point, I was fully in gear: I Googled the nearest wine store, rented a Zipcar, leaped off the couch, picked up the Zipcar, and drove like a mad woman to World Market just in time to buy a bottle of Port before closing time (I left my apartment just 15 minutes before the store closed).

An hour later, one bite drenched in the velvety-rich, buttery Port-reduction cream sauce told me I'd absolutely made the right decision. The morels were full of all that wonderful woody flavor, the chicken was juicy, the fruity Port and subtle lemon zing cut the richness of the sauce perfectly, and I was happily comatose (back on the couch) soon after dinner.

~

Chicken with Morels

(from Ina Garten)

1 oz dried morels, soaked for 30 minutes in 3 c very hot water

6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

All-purpose flour, for dredging

1⁄4 c clarified butter

1⁄3 c chopped shallots (2 large)

1 T minced garlic (3 cloves)

1 c Madeira wine (I successfully substituted Port)

1 c (8 oz) crème fraîche

1 c heavy cream

2 T freshly squeezed lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 375*F.

Lift the morels carefully from the hot water in order to leave any grit behind in the liquid. Rinse a few times to be sure all the grittiness is gone. Discard the liquid and dry the morels lightly with paper towels. Set aside.

Sprinkle the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Dredge them in flour and shake off the excess. Heat half the clarified butter in a large saute pan and cook the chicken in two batches over medium-low heat until browned on both sides, 8-10 min. Remove to an ovenproof casserole.

Add the rest of the clarified butter to the pan along with the shallots, drained morels, and garlic. Saute over medium heat for 2 min, tossing and stirring constantly. Pour the Madeira into the pan and reduce the liquid by half over high heat, 2-4 min. Add the crème fraîche, cream, lemon juice, 1 t salt, and 3⁄4 t pepper. Boil until the mixture starts to thicken, 5-10 min. Pour the sauce over the chicken and bake for 12 min, or until the chicken is heated through.